Fantasies in Leather – Leather & Toys for Bad Girls & Boys

 

Flogger Construction

Quality floggers are handcrafted from start to finish. Custom orders are our specialty!

Fantasies In Leather began with the creation of floggers and in the beginning it was an unhurried and time-consuming endeavor. This remains true today as each flogger is created with careful attention to details. Archer personally selects the leather hides for all flogger lashes. This leather is not procured sight unseen but chosen for specific qualities to make superior floggers.

Lashes

Lashes are hand cut from soft but sturdy sections of animal hides and our standard lashes measure 20" long. Lash width varies from ¼" to ¾" depending on the flogger selected and lash count is between 28 to 30 lashes.

Physics comes into play when considering the number of lashes desired for a flogger: Force = Mass (weight) x Acceleration. If a person can accurately throw a flogger with lightweight or few lashes using the same relative speed they throw one with heavier or more lashes then the impact (force) will be the same.

Cross section is also a consideration. Cross section refers not only to the number of lashes but also to the width of the individual lashes. Generally speaking, all other factors being equal, as the width of each lash increases, the blow will feel more thuddy as opposed to stingy. This is because the force of the blow is distributed over a wider cross section. When considering the number of lashes, both effects are felt to a slightly lesser degree. This is the reason that braided lashes give a deeper blow, albeit a stinging one.

Mop floggers are usually made to give “heavy thud” sensation…and for their sheer evil appearance. The biggest problem with mops is they are difficult to work well and not easy to counterbalance properly because most people can't throw them with the same grip they use on a regular weight flogger. They are as dangerous to the wrists, arms and shoulders of the user as they are to the backs of their targets.

As with many things some people will try to make up for lack of length of various body parts by increasing it in others. We generally recommend that the overall length of a flogger including handle and lashes should be no longer than the length of their arm, regardless of the imagined length of certain body parts. This gives room so that you don't get in the way of your own flogger. Longer lashes can be worked with but is the extra effort really worthwhile?

Handles

Quality lashes are securely fixed to 7" hardwood handles. Longer handles can be custom cut to your specifications but remember: the weight and length of a handle must feel ‘right’ with the tails and this is something that one must feel, not read about.

Handle wraps are generally of two styles: Diamond weave and herringbone weave. Color choices vary. All floggers come complete with wrist strap and hanging loop.

Turkshead Finishing Knots

The turkshead knot is a decorative knot with a basket weave pattern surrounding a cylinder shaped object, The name is used to describe the general family of all such knots rather than one individual knot. The knot was originally named because of its resemblance to a Turban. Most knots used on floggers are variations of the turkshead knot (sometimes called Monkey Paw, Gifthead or Pineapple). The visual differences are a result of shape and thickness of the material (leather, rope, etc) used and the number of strands of material used.

Most turks heads and other ring knots are used to hide the construction of the flogger or whatever else they happen to be used on. They cover the places where the end of the handle braids are, or where the lashes are attached to the handles. They give the item a more finished look and if tied tightly, with leather that stretches a little bit, then they also add to the strength of the construction. A properly placed bottom knot also bundles the tails together. This helps reduce the tendency for the tails to "fly" or break away from each other. Some people throw a flogger by gripping the knot between the forefinger and the middle finger. Unfortunately, this style of throwing can cause friction on the skin leading to blistering between the fingers.

Balance

Balance is the point at which the weight of the handle equals the weight of the tails. Balance is important so that when swinging the flogger with the hand on the middle of the handle does not work the wrist too hard. A properly balanced flogger also enables to Top to lay the lashes more precisely on a desired location on the body. The handle and the turkshead knot or other finishing embellishment on the end of the handle counterbalances the falls.

The most common point of balance is in the neck of the flogger. The neck is where the lashes attach to the handle. However it is less important that the point of balance always be at the neck than it is that the point of balance be consistently in the same part of the handle on all your floggers. It is that consistent placement of the point of balance that makes a consistent throw easier. This creates muscle memory and makes it possible to throw the flogger the most accurately with the least amount of stress on the wrist, arm and shoulder. If the point of balance is one forth the distance from the neck to the end of the handle in all of your floggers then you are still going to have the same benefits as if they were all in the neck.


Herringbone Weave &
Diamond Weave Handles

Braided Lashes

Detail of the Neck and Handle of Our Floggers

Topgrain Leather

Topgrain leather is the uppermost layer of an animal’s skin. One side is fairly smooth and the other side has a suede like quality. Color selection dependant on availability. Fullgrain lash colors on request. Other custom additions available.

Suede

Suede is the inner layer of the hide when the skin is cut into layers. Suede will last only about 1/4 as long as a topgrain leather toy of the same type. So in the long run buying a topgrain flogger is more economical, even if the initial cost is twice that of a suede one. Suede is also difficult to clean. It is too porous and generally you end up having to rub and scrape off the soiled surface of a suede to clean or remove stains (Almost like sanding it off a piece of wood). Color selection dependant on availability.. Other custom additions available.

 

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